nea4wd.org

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:04 pm**

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When you eat spinach, you reap a host of health benefits, including the following: People for the Ethical Treatment of by our taxpayers' money, are actually "political advisors?

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 6:53 pm**

proportioning valve?

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 7:00 pm**

thought you fixed it.

define suck in your situation.

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:02 pm**

I couple thoughts on this.......

1. You still have air in the system (I'm sure you've already checked that)

2. Having not seen the master cyl......You possibly have the lines hooked up backwards. Assuming it has one large and one small chamber, the large chamber feeds the front brakes and the small one feeds the rear brakes.

3. You have the wrong master cyl. You have a manual master cyl with 1" bore instead of the power brake master with the 1 1/8" bore

4. You have a defect master that is bypassing pressure internally.

5. Your push rod is not adjusted out to fully engage the master plunger until pedal is partially depressed.

6. Your pedal stroke fulcrum (lenght from rod to pedal pivot) is such that it requires pushing futher on the pedal than the original 'vette fulcrum length.

7. You're running 1 ton axles with a lot more volume and the master just isn't capable of moving enough fluid.

8. You're weeping fluid onto the rear brake shoes from the wheel cyls

9. You're still using rubber brake hoses that are slightly expanding instead of transfering pressure.

10. The master has an internal restrictor located in one of the ports your brake lines attach to.

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:24 pm**

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=607321

A little background on my rig...

I run a '68 Corvette manual MC on my Scrambler, no boost or hydro assist. I have a front Chevy 60 and a 14 bolt rear with the disk conversion. My brakes are great. Even with the STaK in low/low I can hold the Jeep with no problem.
My MC took a dump on me while at Gray Rock this last June. It emptied the rear reservoir into the front, so I guess the internal seals gave up the ghost.

I wanted to replace the MC with a NEW, GM unit like I had before. No one had them around here, only rebuilds or Napa's "new" unit, which was some generic piece of crap. I contacted a local Corvette restoration shop, http://www.dmcorvette.com/dmhome.htm. They do a LOT of restorations and sales of original Vettes. Anyway, they had the MC new and in-stock.

Now for the tech, I was reading this thread, http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...aster+cylinder and it talked about the front res. going to the rear and the rear res. going to the front. On my Jeep I run it front/front and rear/rear and had excellent results. Oh well, whatever works.
I went up to the DM showroom to check out how the lines to the MC were run on these vintage cars. They had a number of stock late ?60s ?Vettes on the floor. These were all original cars.
Here is what I saw on the routing of the brake lines:

?68 Corvette with manual brakes: front to front, rear to rear.

?68 Corvette with power brakes: front to rear, rear to front.

?72 Corvette with power brakes: front to rear, rear to front.

I think I?ll keep mine as I have had them all along.

Hope this helps.

Posted: **Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:01 pm**

NICE! Great find Mikey!

Posted: **Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:26 pm**

I tried a corvette master (one of each) and while it did have a solid pedal, the pedal travel was crazy long. To lock the brakes, it had to be pushed to withing 1/4" of the floor. Not good for me. Changing to a 1 ton master and big-assed booster to overcome to effort created by the big volume master solved all these issues. I like being able to lock all four tires at will with less than three inches of pedal movement, and without having to use both feet to do so. Braking power is as good or better than my 2006 jetta.

I just did a 4-wheel, manual brake swap on my rig. 1/2-3/4T GM calipers front and rear. I used the '68 vette MC (or at least that's what I ordered), for MANUAL brakes.

They work, but not as firm as I'd like them. LONG pedal, and I can lock up the backs but not the fronts.

34-3600 lbs rig (mostly in the front), 33" tires. Front is to front, rear is to rear, Willwood adjustable in the rear line (but doesn't seem to do much). 3/16" line front and rear.

Posted: **Thu Aug 23, 2007 4:44 pm**

I think I just fixed it
Lengthened the rod again

locks up in about 2~3 inches now

Jim

Posted: **Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:33 pm**

that was a tough one.

Posted: **Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:41 pm**

If I was half as smart as you...

Posted: **Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:19 pm**

bigjeep wrote:I think I just fixed it
Lengthened the rod again

locks up in about 2~3 inches now

Jim

Cool, glad it was that easy.

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